Sewing a Pink Seam

There are few seams in the world easier than a simple pink seam, especially because the pink seam doesn't require any actual sewing. This method is fast and efficient, but it's really only designed for tightly woven fabrics that won't fray even when worn several times. If you have a fabric that frays, pick a different seam.


Still, a pinked seam is useful, especially when you're in the middle of a project. To complete this seam, simply press the seam into its open position, then find a pair of good pinking shears. They must be sharp. If they're not, you'll only damage your fabric. Use the pinking shears to trim the seam allowance raw edge, but don't get too close. You don't want to cut anywhere near the actual seam.

Corset-Style Gown for Sale, Black with Tangerine Accents

This item has been sold.

This corset-style gown spent most of its time in the back room, occasionally being used as a display model(floor model) around Halloween for a few years. It was never worn, but did spent some time on a mannequin. We've changed our Halloween display, and that means selling off the old display items. Also, we no longer have these fabrics available, so there won't be any more of these gowns (in these particular colors) once this last one is gone.

This gown is constructed out of a heavy black cotton blend. The accents are a tangerine damask cotton with an embossed rose print. The roses are hard to see in the photo unless you look closely, but they are there. This gown is corset-style, but bear in mind that it doesn't give any real support. Appropriate undergarments will still be required as the ribbons are for decorative purposes only. The ribbons can be pulled to make the gown slightly smaller than the indicated measurements.

The orange belt in the picture is attached to the gown and cannot be removed. It can, however, be tied either in front of the gown or behind it. Tying the belt in a bow behind the body is a more classic look, but I pulled the belt to the front so it could be easily seen. The belt can help to make the gown fit you more exactly. This gown is designed for Halloween wear, as evidenced by the colors, but you could wear it for other events throughout the year as well.

There is decorative black stitching along the neck and around the sleeves that cannot be seen in the picture. The sleeves are tight until the flounce. The flounce is vibrant and fun and will cover the hand on most wearers.

The gown's approximate measurements are as follows:

• Bust: 36"
• Waist: 28"
• Hips: 38"

Since this is a floor model, there might be some minor markings, but I can't see any. I would consider this gown to be in near-perfect condition These gowns retail for $99.99, but since it's a floor model bidding starts at well under half that price.

Large Cloak for Sale, Turquoise with White Lining

This item has been sold.

This turquoise cloak spent 18 months as a display cloak (floor model). It was never worn, but did spent most of that time on a mannequin. A change in the colors in the shop means this cloak is now for sale. Also, we no longer have these fabrics available, so there won't be any more of these cloaks (in these particular colors) once this last one is gone.

The shell of this medieval cloak is a turquoise damask cotton with an embossed rose print (which is almost impossible to see in the photo). The lining is thick white cotton with an embossed dandelion print. Again, this is hard to see in the photo. Both fabrics are fairly heavy, making this a wonderfully warm cloak. It closes with a pewter clasp and has a lovely drape due to the weight of the fabrics used in its construction.

The cloak itself is large enough to fit most people. I would call it a large cloak, but it can be worn by most adults who wear size large or smaller. It will brush the floor on anyone under 5'6"tall. If you're shorter than that, it will drag on the floor. This gothic cloak is definitely considered full-length. The hood is large and deep (though thrown back in the picture).

Since this is a floor model, there might be some minor markings, especially on the lining. The markings on the lining are not noticeable when the cloak is worn. The shell is in near-perfect condition with no marks that I can see. These cloaks retail for $59.99, but since it's a floor model bidding starts at less than half that price.

Knitting Patterns: Beanie Hat

I love to knit. It's a great way to pass the time when I'm not in the middle of a sewing project that needs attention. I like to sit and knit while watching my favorite movies. Usually I'm making whatever my kids have asked for. Yesterday, it was a beanie hat, often called a toque. Making one yourself is actually very easy. All you need is a couple balls of yarn, a circular sewing needle (I like US size 7, but you can use a different size if you like), four or five double point needles of the same size, a tapestry needle, and a free afternoon. You'll also need to know how to make a basic knit stitch and a basic purl stitch.

Start by casting on your stitches onto the circular needles. How many you need is determined by how large the hat must be. The hat in the picture was made using a hundred stitches. It fits my five-year-old son. You can make a hat using many more stitches, but make sure the number you use is divisible by four. For example, you can make a hat using 124 stitches, but not 125. Trust me, this is important.

Once you have your stitches cast on, join them so they're in a circle on the circular needles, making sure not to twist the stitches. Also make sure you use a stitch marker so you don't lose track of where you started. Now you can begin a simple rib stitch. Knit one, purl one, repeat. See, simple. Continue the rib stitch for six rounds, more if you want a thicker rib around the base of your hat. Keep your stitch marker in place, making sure not to drop it. That stitch marker should stay exactly where it is until you've finished the hat, so just keep transferring it from needle to needle.

After you've completed the rib section of your hat, you can forget all about having to purl. The rest of the beanie is only a knit stitch. Knit until you are at least six inches from the edge of the hat, maybe a little more depending on the size of your forehead. At this point, you can add the stripes of color seen in the photo. Add two rounds of a contrasting color, then three of your base color, then two more of your contrasting color to get the effect you see in the photo. You can change the patter as you desire, but once you've added seven or eight additional rounds, it's time to start decreasing your hat.

This is where being able to divide your stitches by four is essential. Knit one more round, but count out your stitches, adding three more stitch markers as you go. You should end up with four stitch markers evenly spaced. I like to add a fifth stitch marker to the first one so I still know exactly where I started. This keeps your hat nice and even as you decrease.

So, decreasing. It's really not that hard. You'll have to be able to knit 2 together and perform a slip, slip, knit, but you can find videos for these on YouTube. Basically, you knit 2 together after each stitch marker and slip, slip, knit right before each stitch marker. This reduces your total number of stitch by 2 for each stitch marker, so you'll have eight fewer stitches after each completed round.

Continue to knit, decreasing at each stitch marker. At some point, you'll have to switch to the double pointed needles because you won't have enough stitches left to continue on the circular needles. I like using five needles for this, but you can do it with four. It doesn't work with three. Continue knitting on the double pointed needles until you have fewer than ten stitches left.

At this point, you should cut a ten inch tail of your yarn. You won't need more than that to finish off the hat. Thread the end onto your tapestry needle, thread the tapestry needle through the remaining stitches, and tie off the yarn on the inside of the hat (because your hat will look funny if you tie it off on the outside).

You should now have a completed hat. Maybe now you'll want to make a coordinating scarf. I know I did.

And for those who need a little help with slip, slip, knit.