Sewing for the Seasons: Handmade Wardrobe Projects to Match the Weather

There’s something magical about creating your own clothing—not just for the craftsmanship, but for the intentionality it brings to your wardrobe. When you sew with the seasons in mind, your handmade pieces become more than just garments. They become thoughtful expressions of both personal style and seasonal living. Whether you’re embracing crisp autumn winds or the bright burst of spring, sewing for the seasons means your closet is always working with you—not against the weather.

Spring – Breezy Layers and Florals

As the world begins to bloom, so should your wardrobe. Think light cottons, linens, and double gauze. This is the perfect time to sew floaty dresses, gathered skirts, and light cardigans. Look for floral prints, pastel tones, and breathable fabrics that transition well between chilly mornings and sun-warmed afternoons.

Summer – Sun-Ready and Comfortable

When the heat cranks up, simplicity reigns. Quick-to-make tank tops, breezy shorts, and loose sundresses made from lightweight fabrics like voile, rayon, and seersucker are must-haves. Elastic waistbands and sleeveless designs offer comfort, while bold prints and bright colors match the season’s vibrancy.

Autumn – Cozy Layers and Earth Tones

Fall is when many sewists feel their creativity hit full stride. It’s layering season! Wool blends, brushed flannels, and corduroy make their debut. Focus on creating tunics, long-sleeved shirts, sweater dresses, and cozy shawls. Rich rusts, deep greens, and warm neutrals echo the colors of falling leaves.

Winter – Warm, Functional, and Luxurious

This is the time for thick knits, fleece linings, and quilted textures. Whether you're sewing pajamas, structured skirts, or a full-on winter coat, the focus is on warmth and comfort. Jewel tones, plaids, and deep blues bring richness to cold-weather makes. Don’t forget accessories—sewing your own mittens, scarves, and hats is both practical and deeply satisfying.

Sewing Intentionally with the Seasons

Sewing seasonally isn’t just about fabric choice—it’s about mindset. It encourages you to slow down and anticipate your needs. Planning ahead allows you to enjoy each seasonal shift with something handmade to match. Plus, seasonal sewing helps reduce waste and overproduction by ensuring you’re making pieces with a clear purpose and wearability.

Your sewing machine becomes more than a tool—it becomes a timekeeper, quietly measuring the rhythm of the year through every stitch.

Sewing a Corded Seam

If you want a really cute and decorative seam that stands out, consider a corded seam. This type of seam is often used as a design feature and looks stunning when you use a fabric or color that really sets off the entire project. Try this on pillows or skirts first, then get more adventurous and add it to shirts, quilts, and anything else you like.

The options for the 'cord' part of your seam are endless. The easiest thing to do is just cut a strip of fabric that you like, but you can actually buy cording for seams if you like. I tend to prefer just working with fabric, but it's really up to you.

Unlike some other seams, to sew a corded seam you do not start with a plain seam. Instead, you have to create the seam with the cording already in place. To make your cording, cut a strip of fabric as long as the seam and a little bit wider than double the seam allowance. So if you're going to leave ½" seam allowances, the fabric should be just over 1" wide. How much wider depends on how prominent you want the cording in the finished product. I like a very discrete cording, so I'd cut a piece of fabric that is 1¼" wide. You can go wider, if you like.

Now that you have your fabric strip, you can start your seam. You'll need pins to keep everything in place, so make sure you have plenty on hand. The key to a corded seam is to line everything up and pin it all in place before you start. You'll be lining up the raw edges of the seam allowances of both your project and your fabric strip. The seams of your project go right sides together, but the fabric must go in between. Fold your fabric strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. This is important. You want the right sides of the fabric strip facing outward.

Now that you have your folded strip, you can place it in between the raw edges of the seam allowances of your project. Line everything up perfectly and pin in place. You don't want anything to slip. Stitch as you would a plain seam, ½" from the seam allowance. Go carefully and straight, making sure you're catching the cording while you sew.

This technique can be used to apply many types of decorative trim. You can apply cording, yes, but also lace or any trim that has enough of an edge to slip between the fabric of whatever project you're working on. The possibilities are endless.

Sewing a Double Topstitch Seam

A double topstitch actually adds a little structure to your project, unlike some of the other decorative seams. It's definitely more stable than the more common topstitch seam. Of course, it does take a little more time. It takes double the time, actually, because you have to stitch down both sides of the seam allowance. But it works well and is worth the little extra time. Besides, it's not exactly a complicated stitch.

Like so many decorative seams, you're going to start with a plain seam. Press the seam open. Make sure the plain seam is perfectly flat. The finished product will look better the smoother the original seam is. When it's as flat as you can make it, topstitch on each side of the seamline about ⅛" from the plain seam. Make sure the distance from the plain seam is the same on both sides.

You can venture further from the seam, if you like. You can even go up to ½" away from the plain seam. But be careful and make sure you catch the seam allowances while you stitch. Don't miss them. If you do miss them, you'll have to unpick the entire topstitch line and start again. It's a decorative seam, after all. It's designed to look nice.

This seam is simple and easy and makes a pretty little addition to a variety of projects.

Sewing a Topstitch Seam

Decorative stitches don't do much for the structure of your garment or item, but they do look pretty. The topstitch seam does help a bit, but only by holding the seam allowances in place. It isn't strong enough to be a seam all on its own, so you'll have to start with a plain seam. It is stronger than the hand pick seam, but it won't give much support or structure to your project.


Start with the aforementioned plain seam. Press both seam allowances to one side. Don't bother with trimming them. It's unnecessary for this decorative stitch. Make sure your seam allowances are flat and that the seam itself is well pressed. The seam will look better for it.


Begin stitching on the right side of the fabric. Stitch ¼" to ½" from the seam, making sure to catch the seam allowances while you stitch. Don't miss the seam allowances. Go slowly if you need to or even stitch a little closer to the seam if you must. The whole point is to secure the seam allowances.


This seam is quick and gives a little something extra to your projects.

Sewing a Hand Pick Seam

Sometimes, you're looking for a decorative seam to punch things up a bit. The hand pick seam can be used to hold your seam allowances in place while at the same time giving a unique look took a project. It's not difficult to do, but it does take a little time. You are hand stitching a bit, after all.

Start with a plain seam. This is where most decorative seams start. Press the seam allowances all to one side, making sure they lie flat and there are no unexpected creases that might cause you to miss a stitch. After securing your thread to the wrong side of your fabric, hand stitch a series of small backstitches down the edge of the seam allowance on the right side of the fabric, making sure to catch the seam allowance in your stitches.


You can space the stitches from ¼" to ½" apart. If you want a more uniform look, pin a piece of graph paper to the right side of your fabric to create a guide for yourself. If you want a more random look, forget the graph paper and space the stitches as you like.


This stitch doesn't provide much structural support to your projects, but it's not meant to. Decorative stitches are just what they sound like. They're just for looks. A fun way to put your stamp on your projects. You can make the stitches large or small, spaced evenly or not. It's entirely up to you.

My Most Random Sewing Tips

Most people who sew a lot have several random tips floating around their brains. I'm no exception. Some of these are time savers, some are just little things that make my projects just a little easier. Some of these may work for you.


Fabric Weights...Or Not
Have you ever needed fabric weights and just can't find any? Resorted to using a couple apples and a can of soup? Been there, and not every fabric store carries fabric weights. Some cities don't even have a decent fabric store to shop at. But most cities and even towns have a party store. So head down and check out the balloons. Every party store I've ever been in carries balloon weights. They're small and heavy, and can easily double as fabric weights. Great for holding patterns in place when you just don't want to pin them, or when pinning them isn't recommended for the fabric you're using.


Souvenir Shopping
Have you ever returned from a trip to find your suitcase overflowing with souvenirs? Most of us have. Souvenirs are fun. Right until we get home and realize we have 11 new knickknacks that we don't have any space for. But we all want a souvenir from our travels. So instead of more traditional souvenirs, pick up some local fabric or trim. You can then turn this fabric into something to remember your trip by. You'll save space in your suitcase and end up with something useful that you made yourself. Try making throw pillows, making a fabric collage, or even quilting.


Hate Clipping Curves?
I don' know about you, but I hate carefully clipping curves. Cut too far and you've ruined it. Don't cut far enough and you have to cut again. All to make curves look just right. Forget it. I don't clip, not anymore. Instead, I use my pinking shears. Trim the seam allowance close to the seam and you've both trimmed the seam allowance and clipped the curve at the same time. Two steps in one, and it saves you the aggravation of clipped the curve.


Easy Stitch Ripping
No matter now perfect we strive to be, we all make mistakes. Ripping out seams and stitches is a part of sewing. It can't really be avoided, but we can make it a little quicker. Instead of sitting on the couch, ripping stitches one by one, save yourself a little time. Use your sewing machine to hold the seam in place. Put the lower seam allowance under the pressure foot and lower the needle, being sure you're only catching the lower seam allowance. Use one hand to hold the upper seam allowance while you take a stitch ripper or sharp razor blade to the threads. With a little practice, you'll be ripping seams in no time.


Keep It Clean
I don't know about you, but I hate cleaning up all those little thread clippings. Even if you try to keep them in a pile, they end up everywhere. For a quick and easy clean up, make a loop out of a piece of masking tape, sticky side out. Stick this loop onto the side of the sewing machine. Make sure it's out of the way but still easily accessible. Place all thread clippings here as they come. This way all you have to do is toss the masking tape. Easy!


I have other tips, of course. But these are some of the most helpful. Give them a try.

Sewing a Double-Stitch Seam

Some fabrics, such as knits, just seem to hate being stitched at all. They almost actively resist being forced into a seam. For these kind of fabrics, sometimes you have to break out the big guns. Sometimes you have to double-stitch a seam.

This is actually quite simple, though a little annoying. Start with a plain seam, but do not press it open. Instead, stitch another row about 1/4" from the raw edge of the seam allowance. You now have two lines of stitching.

To finish off your seam, you actually have a few options. You could just leave it. I don't, but you can. You could trim the remaining seam allowance to about 1/16" from the second row of stitching. You may use pinking shears for this, as I do, it just cut it straight. Your final option is to add a line of zigzag stitching after the second row of straight stitching. All if these will work for your double-stitch seam.

This is a common seam for heavy weight fabrics and knits, but it's not recommended for lightweight fabrics.

Sewing an Overlock Seam

There are dozens of different seams you can use to finish a garment. Sometimes you'll use a French seam on a delicate fabric. Other times, you'll use a flat-fell seam to create strong and sturdy seams on a strong and sturdy fabric. But these seams are both enclosed seams. Useful, yes, but if you need to reduce bulk and create a more flexible seam, you may want to explore the world of overedge seams.




An overedge seam is finished with closed seam allowances and is typically quite narrow. One quick and easy option is the overlock seam. This seam prevents unraveling, making it perfect for knits and other stretch fabrics. To pull this one off, you need a serger, otherwise known as an overlock machine. Once you've sewn your seam, pass the raw edge through the serger. This will both finish the edge of the seam and trim the seam allowance. You can either feed each seam allowance separately and press open, or press them together and finish them as one. If you finish them as one, press the seam allowances to one side.

A serger can also be used to stitch the seam and finish the seam allowance in a single pass. To do this, you'll have to check your serger's manual for specific directions. It's not that difficult, but I still prefer to sew the seam first myself and then finish with the serger. Though doing it all at once may be a little quicker, I find the quality of the seam itself isn't as precise as I'd like.




The benefit of an overlock seam is that it will not fray. It really can't, not bound and trimmed the way it is. But this seam finish doesn't work well on delicate fabrics. Use it for knits and stretch fabrics and you'll be pleased with the results.

Sewing a French Seam

Lightweight fabrics can be difficult to seam, but this difficulty is compounded when the lightweight fabric is also sheer. You don't want the seams to look too much like seams, but you do need seams. If you find yourself in this position, you might want to consider a French seam, which totally encloses the raw edges and gives a neat and polished look. It is a little more work than a standard seam, but the finished product is worth the effort.


Start by stitching a plain seam with wrong sides together. The ideal seam allowance here would be ⅜". This gives you a little space to work with and makes trimming the seam easier. Once your plain seam is complete, trim the seam allowance to ⅛". Press the seam open with a warm iron. Then fold the fabric right sides together, making sure to fold directly along the stitching line. Press well and precisely. This is the key to a good and well sewn French seam.


Stitch ¼" from the fold, totally enclosing the seam allowance you previously trimmed. If you've done your job correctly, you shouldn't seem any of the raw seam allowance on the outside. It should all be enclosed.


On very lightweight fabrics like Swiss batiste, you might want to make the size of the seam even smaller. If you can trim the seam allowance even more and stitch ⅛" from the folded edge if you can manage it. This way you are sure to minimize the appearance of your seams. If you can't pull this off, don't worry. The standard French seam should work well enough.

Sewing a Mock Flat-Fell Seam

Heavier weight fabrics that tend to fray a bit can often benefit from a flat-fell seam, just like you'd see on the sides of your jeans. But what if you don't want the seam on the outside of your garment? Well, you can achieve the same basic look with the seam on the inside. This is called a mock flat-fell seam, though some call it the mock jean seam.

The process for putting this seam together is very much like the flat-fell seam, except you work on the inside of your garment. This means you start with a standard seam, sewn right sides together. So if you decide after you've already started sewing that you want a flat-fell seam, and you don't feel like taking everything apart, you can settle for a mock flat-fell seam.

To create this flat and secure seam, press both raw edges to one side. I like to press them toward the back of the garment, but it doesn't really matter. Just make sure you press all your seams in the same direction. It makes everything look nicer in the end.

You should now have the raw edges of your seam allowance together, one on top of the other. Trim the bottom seam allowance to ⅛". Careful. Don't cut the top one, because you'll need that seam allowance to encase the other. Fold the uncut seam allowance around the other and press so that the uncut seam allowance is folded in half and fully cases the edge that you cut. Press firmly so that it doesn't move around on you.

Now to stitch it in place. Topstitch as close to the folded edge as you can, going slow and steady so you don't miss. Also topstitch on top of the original seamline. This will give you a nice finished seam inside and two perpendicular lines of stitching on the outside. All nice and finished with no raw edges visible inside or out.

This is a good choice for sporty garments or garments you want to  make reversible. It takes a little work and some precision stitching, but it's excellent practice and is well worth the effort.

Sewing a Flat-Fell Seam

If you've ever seen a pair of jeans, you know exactly what a flat-fell seam is. It's the seam that lies flat on your jeans, totally encased within itself. This seam is strong and sturdy, typically used on sports clothing or reversible garments. Some people call this the jean seam simply because it's used on almost every pair of jeans you'll ever buy. It's a good looking, professional seam. Though it looks complicated, it's actually as easy as any other enclosed seam. If you've ever sewn a bias bound seam, you'll be able to full off the flat-fell seam.

Unlike some of the other seam finishes, you actually have to know you're going to use this seam finish before you ever start your garment. This is because the raw edges of the seam have to appear on the outside of the clothing. To accomplish this, simply sew the item with wrong sides together instead of right sides together, but only on the seams where you want a flat-fell effect. If you're making jeans, you'd probably only do this on the side seams. The inseams and crotch seams are not usually created using this method. Check your favorite pair of jeans and you'll see exactly where the flat-fell is typically used. Of course, since you're making your own garment, you can use the flat-fell seam wherever you like.

Once you have your chosen seams on the outside of your garment, press both raw edges to one side. Usually you would press both edges toward the back of your garment, but the choice is yours. Just be consistent. After pressing, trim the lower seam allowance to ⅛". Fold the upper seam allowance around and under the lower seam allowance. You'll basically be folding the upper seam allowance in half and tucking the lower allowance inside it. Press again, then topstitch through all layers close to the fold, essentially sealing the seam allowances inside themselves. Topstitch once again close to the seamline just to make it all look pretty and that's your flat-fell seam.

This seam is excellent when you have to hide your seams completely, especially for those garments you want to lie flat against your skin. With this type of seam, after all, there are no seam allowances inside the garment to brush against you.

Sewing a Hong Kong Seam

Seams may appear straightforward, but they can be tricky things. Not in the sewing of them, because that's quite easy, but in deciding exactly what type of seam might be most appropriate. You might need a common seam, such as a clean finish seam, or an enclosed seam like one bound in bias tape. Perhaps an overlock or a French seam would suit you better. But how do you choose? Well, that depends on the type of fabric and the item you're sewing, of course.

If you're using a heavyweight fabric, and if the item in question is an unlined garment, you might decide upon a Hong Kong seam. This finish totally encases the seams, giving your garment a pretty, almost couture, finish on the inside. It should be noted that this particular seam finish works only on straight or moderately straight seams. Curved seams have to be notched to lie properly, and the notching means that a Hong Kong finish is not really possible.

But if your seams are mostly straight, and your seam is pressed open nicely, you can cut a continuous length of bias tape. The tape should be a full inch wide, maybe even a little wider, and it should be pressed open. This may seem a little wide for a seam, but the extra width gives you much needed excess when you start working on the wrong side of the seam. You can always trim it down later. You don't have to use actual bias tape. You can cut your own strips of fabric to use if you want something coordinated to the fabric you're using. Maybe even use remnants of the main fabric, or a pretty silk to make your seams even prettier. It's up to you. If you're cutting your own strips, 1½" is probably the best width to work with. Remember, you will be able to trim it later.

With the seam pressed open, line up the edge of the bias tape with the raw edges of the seam, right sides together. Stitch ¼" from the raw edge, but only on one side. Now open up this new seam, revealing the right sides of both the fabric and the bias tape. Press open, then fold the bias tape under the raw edge and press again. The seam should now be enclosed in the bias tape. To secure, stitch in place from the top side, making sure your needle hits precisely where the fabric hits the bias tape. This is called the 'ditch', and stitching here should make your stitches all by disappear. Nice and neat. Trim off the excess and repeat for the other side of the seam. This is your Hong Kong seam.

Though this seam is a little more work than the less fussy bias tape bound seam, it is neater and exactly the type of seam finish you might need if you're creating an unlined garment where the seams will occasionally be seen. If you want to jazz it up even more, consider using silk or another fine fabric as your bias tape. Though this isn't necessary, a finer fabric enhances the finish and makes your garment appear designer. Which it is. Designed by you, anyway.

Sewing a Self-Bound Seam

There are so many seam finishes out there it can be difficult to decide on one. The decision is typically made based on the type of fabric and the exact look you're going for. If you're hoping to hide all your raw edges by enclosing them, and your fabric is sturdy and does not fray easily, or at all, you might consider the self-bound seam.

Start by ironing your seam in the expensive position. This will help keep you from accidentally clipping both sides of the seam allowance. When it's nice and flat, trim one side to about 1/8". No more than that, but not really less than that either. You'll need the room.

Once that's done, fold under the opposite seam allowance and press carefully. Fold it under again and press again. Then take the trimmed seam allowance and slip it inside the folded seam allowance. Take your time and make sure everything lays flat along the entire length of the seam.

When you're prepared, stitch the seam closed. Stay as close to the folded edge as possible while still catching all layers of the seam allowance. Once you're done, press flat and go.

Sewing a Tricot Bound Seam

If your fabrics are sheer or especially delicate, a bias tap bound seam may actually be too heavy. In this case, you may want to bind the seam using tricot, which is a lighter and more delicate fabric. It will work well with other fabrics of a similar weight.

To sew a tricot bound seam, cut a long piece of tricot about the width of the seam allowance. Fold this piece of tricot strip in half lengthwise and encase the raw edge of the seam allowance. Stitch along the edge of the tricot strip using either a zigzag or a straight stitch.

Remember to press your seam open before beginning. Also make sure the tricot you're using won't shrink when you wash the garment or item in question. When in doubt, pre-shrink your fabrics before you begin.

Sewing a Bias Tape Bound Seam

Fabrics that fray so quickly and completely that they'll practically disappear on you typically benefit from an enclosed seam. The most common enclosed seam is a bias tape bound seam. this type of seam finish works well for easily frayed fabrics, fur, and unlined jackets that you need to give a professional look to. It's also fairly easy to pull off if you have some coordinating bias tape lying around. If you don't, head off to your local store and buy some. Make sure you've measured your seams and added up how much you'll need so you don't need to make a second run.

Now that you have your bias tape, it's time to enclose and finish your seam. Start by pressing your seam open. Then encase each raw edge with the bias tape, pinning carefully so you'll catch both sides of the tape and the fabric when you sew the seam. Stitch close to the folded edge of the bias tape, making sure you're not missing the tape on the other side. Once you stitch both sides of the seam, you're finished.

You can make your own bias tape, if you like. This is done by simply cutting long strips of fabric and folding and pressing so that it is folded just like bias tape. Examine a piece of bias tape to see how it's folded and you'll discover making your own out of whatever fabric you wish isn't hard.

Whether you make it or buy it, make sure to wash and dry the bias tape before you use it. Nothing is more irritating than having your bias tape shrink once you've already finished your garment. So always, always pre-shrink your bias tape.

Sewing a Zigzag Seam Finish

Knits, stretch fabrics, and fabrics that fray easily are usually best finished with a serger. This makes them nice and neat and unlikely to unravel on you. Great, right? Sergers, however, are incredibly expensive (unless you buy a cheap one that breaks 2 months later) and not worth the investment unless you're looking to become a professional seamstress. So if you don't want to shell out money for a serger but you still want to finish your fabrics in a slightly-professional manner, you'll need to use a zigzag, or even a double zigzag, to give your seam finishes a decent look.

Before you begin finishing your seam, press it flat. You can do this by either pressing the seam allowances open or closed. Open results in a flatter seam when everything is finished, but closed looks more like a professional serged edged. It's really up to you. Remember that if you're ironing the seam allowances closed, you'll be stitching them together with your zigzag. If you're ironing them open, you'll be stitching them individually.

Either way, iron your seam before beginning. Once this is done, stitch a wide or medium-wide zigzag stitch near the raw edge of the seam allowance. If you're not sure what size stitch to use, practice a bit on a scrap piece of fabric. Change your stitch widths a few times and see what works best. In general, you'll use a wider stitch for heavyweight fabrics and a narrow stitch for lightweight fabrics, but this is only a guide. Use what works. You can trim your seam allowances if you like, but be careful not to clip the stitching or you'll have to start all over again.

The zigzag seam finish is probably the most common finish for most of us (including me because I have a love/hate relationship with my serger). It tends to be the go-to seam finish, but don't be afraid to experiment with others.

Sewing a Hand Overcast Seam

Sheer and delicate fabrics are some of the most difficult to work with, especially when it comes to finishing a seam. Delicate fabrics sometimes fall apart when you try to finish a seam using your sewing machine, so it's often better to do so by hand. This is the gentlest way to finish off your more delicate projects.

The hand overcast method might sound self explanatory, but it's not, not really. If you don't do it right, and you don't keep it consistent, you'll find yourself with a seam finish that bunches. Start by ironing your seam open and flat, but use a very low setting. Delicate fabrics don't like a lot of heat. That's one of the many reasons they're labeled 'delicate'.

Once your seam is flat, hand stitch diagonal stitches ⅛" from the raw edge of the seam allowance. Make sure the stitches fall diagonally and that you don't pull too tight. You don't want the fabric bunching. Take your time. You'll want to make sure the stitches are ¼" apart. Keep it consistent. If this is difficult for you, consider pinning a piece of graph paper to the seam allowance as a guide. Even stitches that aren't too tight are the key to this delicate seam finish.

Sewing a Clean-Finish or Turn & Stitch Seam

I often get e-mails asking about certain sewing techniques, especially seams and seam finishes. Usually these requests are really just to clarify terms (such as the word "pink" in relation to sewing). Commercial patterns today assume a certain level of knowledge, so sometimes a pattern will ask you to do something simple, but not actually explain what that 'simple' thing is.

Such is the case with clean-finish seams, sometimes referred to as turn & stitch seams. Clean-finish is just a nice way of saying "don't leave the raw edges visible". It's a good choice to help prevent fraying on light to medium weight fabrics and it's fairly easy to accomplish.

First, iron your seam so that it's both flat and open. You should have done this already, but if you haven't, do it now. Once your seam is ironed, fold the raw edge of the seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric. You only need to fold it ⅛" to ¼", so don't get carried away. Iron your fold before proceeding. This will keep it from slipping and driving you batty.

Stitch close to the fold to finish your seam. If you like you might want to trim some of the excess, but this is typically unnecessary for this type of seam. Iron your finished turn & stitch seam just to make everything lay flat. It will look prettier this way.

Sewing a Stitch and Pink Seam

The stitch and pink seam finish is quick and easy, but it's really only useful for fabrics that are tightly woven. Fabrics that fray are not a good match for this seam, and knitted fabrics absolutely should not be finished this way (unless you want your project to unravel). With the appropriate fabric, however, this seam finish will work well enough.


The term 'pink' refers to a set of pinking shears, so you'll need a sharp set for this seam finish. But before breaking out the pinking shears, stitch ¼" from the raw edge of the seam allowance. You can use either a simple straight stitch or a zigzag. Now use the pinking shears to trim the excess fabric away. Don't get too close to your line of stitching or you risk cutting your stitching. If you can avoid this particular problem, your stitch and pink seam will hold as well as any other.

Sewing a Pink Seam

There are few seams in the world easier than a simple pink seam, especially because the pink seam doesn't require any actual sewing. This method is fast and efficient, but it's really only designed for tightly woven fabrics that won't fray even when worn several times. If you have a fabric that frays, pick a different seam.


Still, a pinked seam is useful, especially when you're in the middle of a project. To complete this seam, simply press the seam into its open position, then find a pair of good pinking shears. They must be sharp. If they're not, you'll only damage your fabric. Use the pinking shears to trim the seam allowance raw edge, but don't get too close. You don't want to cut anywhere near the actual seam.