Sewing a Straight or Plain Seam

The most common seam in the sewing world is the plain or straight seam. In fact, most other types of seams, including many of the fancy seams, begin with this simple process. So you absolutely must master this seam if you're going to do any amount of sewing at all. The good news? It's so simple my four-year-old can do it.

Before you begin the seam, check the pattern you're using. The standard pattern you buy at most stores will have a ⅝" seam allowance, though the clothing you buy off the rack will usually have a ½" seam allowance. A proper seam allowance is essential to ensuring the garment fits as intended, so make sure you know your measurement and that you've set your machine accordingly. See your manual for directions on doing this.

Pin your fabric pieces with right sides together. Make sure the fabric is lined up and that nothing is backwards (picking out a seam is a pain). Place your fabric in the sewing machine and stitch a straight line at an equal distance from the fabric's raw edge. Do this for the entire length of the seam. Backstitch ¼" at the beginning and end of the seam to keep the seam from unravelling. Once you've done this, press the seam open so it lies flat inside the garment.

Once you've mastered this seam, you can start finishing your seams using any number of finishes, including hand overcast, zigzag, or pinking.

The Importance of Seams and Seam Finishes

Seams are quite possibly the most important part of your sewing project. Think about it for a moment. You do all this work to designs, pattern, and cut your garment. You pin it all in place. That's already a lot of work, especially for more complex sewing patterns. You owe it to yourself to make sure the seam is of good quality, and that you're using the right seam finish for the job. After all, you don't want that gown or blouse falling apart the first time you wear it!

Your seam will make or break your project, so understanding seams will help create an item that will have both form and function. A seam finish is used to make the raw edge of your seam allowance look cleaner, but it also keeps fabrics from fraying or unraveling. But before you choose a seam finish, there are three important factors to consider.

Fabric Type and Weight

Some fabrics are more delicate than others. If you're working with a finely woven lace, you'll have to use a different seam finish than you would if you were using a heavy wool. You might only pink the wool, but you'll probably have to hand overcast or even tricot bind the lace. A knit fabric may need an overlock seam. You must take your fabric type into account when choosing your seam finish.

Garment Type

Almost as important as the fabric is the type of garment you'll be creating. If seams are visible during wear, you might opt for welt, fagotting, cord, or even hand pick when finishing the seams. Standard seams are fine for any project where the seams are hidden inside the the finished product.

Frequency of Use and Laundering

Wearing and washing garments slowly weakens all seam finishes. If you're going to be wearing something every day, you might choose an overedge seam or even bias tape binding to get the most life out of your garments. If you're hardly going to wear it (or if it's home decor project), hand overcast  or topstitching might do.

In the coming weeks I'll explore the thirty most common seam finishes. Some of these are practical, some are decorative, but all are useful when sewing, either for the beginner or the seasoned professional.

Reupholstering Dining Room Chairs

I love my padded dining room chairs, but I'm not a fan of the fabric. It's dated (since my parents originally bought the set back in the 1980s) and not in the best shape. Also, the foam isn't as firm or as springy as it used to be. Time for a new look, but instead of buying new chairs, I'm simply going to reupholster the old ones.

This is actually a fairly easy process if you have a few simple tools. You can do it yourself if you're so inclined. First, select foam made from compressed polyester fiber. I like Nu-Foam, but there are other varieties out there. This is a better material than the more common polyurethane foam because it is flame-retardant, mildew-resistant, non-allergenic, washable, and it doesn't yellow or disintegrate over time. This means it will last longer and wear better than polyurethane. You can get compressed polyester fiber foam in a variety of precut sizes, and it can always be cut down if it's just a little too big, so it's convenient as well. If you have to cut the foam, use a utility knife or even sharp scissors to get an even cut.

Select a fabric that you enjoy. An upholstery fabric is your best bet, but you can use almost anything. Bear in mind that thinner fabrics aren't as durable and will have to be replaced more often. Thicker fabrics wear better and are more designed for constant use.

Once you have your foam and fabric, turn the chair upside down. Look for the screws holding the seat in place and unscrew them. Remove the seat and place it in front of you so you can see the staples holding the existing fabric in place. Use a heavy-duty staple remover (or a flathead screwdriver) to remove the staples. Do this carefully so you don't damage the seat.

Take the existing foam pad and fabric off the chair. The foam may be disintegrating, so be careful not to make too much of a mess. You can throw out the foam, but keep the fabric for now. You can use it to create a pattern and limit mistakes. Press the fabric with a warm iron so it lies flat. Place it on top of a sheet of butcher's paper (or other large paper) and trace the shape of the fabric. use a thick marker so you can see the line clearly. Then cut out the shape and discard the fabric.

You now have a basic pattern to use with your new fabric. Position the new seat fabric right side up on a flat surface. Put your pattern on top and trace the pattern using a removable fabric marker to avoid staining the new fabric. Cut out the fabric and discard the pattern (unless you're doing more than one chair).

Place the new foam on a flat surface. Put the seat base over the foam to see if you have to trim any edges. You probably do, even with precut pieces. You probably want to round the corners and trim the edges. Use your scissors or a sharp utility knife for this.

Now that everything is trimmed to size, place the fabric right side down on a flat surface. Center the foam over the fabric and place the seat base over the foam. Pull the fabric taunt toward the seat base along each side. Place a staple in the center of the edge closest to you. Pull the fabric taunt again and place a staple in the center of the edge furthest from you. Do the same on the right and left edges, pulling taunt each time. You should have four staples holding the fabric in place.

Now finish stapling the fabric, folding the raw edges and corners under as you go. Start close to one of your staples and move toward the corner, pulling taunt each time to keep the fabric smooth. Make a small pleat at each corner, then staple the pleat in place. Don't cut the fabric or you'll risk a tear in the finished product.

When the fabric is attached and you're satisfied with the results, reattach the seat to the chair frame. Repeat with all your other chairs and you're done.

A word of warning: If the fabric you're using has a pattern where direction matters, make sure you staple the fabric so the pattern goes the same way on all chairs. It will look more professional.

Want to watch a professional do it? Take a look at the video below. Bear in mind that he doesn't remove the foam or existing fabric, but you get the idea.

Vintage Patterns: Choosing Undergarments for Your Vintage Clothing

I make a lot of vintage or vintage-inspired clothing for my customers. And I'm inevitably asked about undergarments. Do you really need those vintage undergarments to get the right look when wearing vintage clothing? Well, yes and no. It really depends on what your goal is.

Many of the patterns from the '50s and '60s (and some of the earlier sewing patters as well) were designed to be worn over specific undergarments. In the case of women's garments from those decades, this usually means a girls or petticoats, sometimes even both. If you're sewing a very fitted garment that is designed for use with a girdle, you may have to add more ease to both the waist and the hips. If you want the iconic look, you might want to try a girdle.

Most of the vintage patterns you'll find look perfectly find without any special underwear. In fact, you'll look more like you're wearing clothes and less like you're wearing a costume if you just wear whatever you would normally wear. If you like a push-up bra, wear it. If you hate garters, ignore them. Wear what makes you comfortable.

This is true of just about all vintage clothing, unless you want to achieve the full-skirt look. If you really want full skirts, you'll have to wear petticoats. Don't bother with the hoop skirt (they're uncomfortable and unwieldy), but do buy or make a few good-quality petticoats. Before you hit the town, however, practice wearing them around the house. Modern women aren't used to petticoats, and they do change the way you move. A few hours should be enough time to acclimate yourself to the feel and look of voluminous petticoats.

How many petticoats? That's up to you. More petticoats means a fuller skirt, but it also means you'll have more difficulty moving around. Try adding one at a time until you get the look you want.

Vintage Patterns: Finding Patterns With Particular Design Details

Vintage patterns are many and varied, just like modern patterns. And we all get comfortable with certain design details and styles. Perhaps we like the style, or we just find it easier to sew garments when we're already familiar with those particular details. But it can be difficult to find vintage patterns that use the design details you're familiar with.

This is where Vintage Pattern Wiki comes in. This is a standard wiki site, which means it can be edited by anyone, but this one focuses on vintage sewing patterns. With the ability to search patterns by era, style, manufacturer, or designer, this is probably the fastest way to find what you're looking for.

What I love is the search function. You can type in certain design elements (try typing princess seams in the search bar), and you'll come up with a variety of patterns that contain that particular element. And there are usually links to online stores where the patterns are available for purchase. You can even sign up for a wish list for patterns that are currently unavailable. This way, you'll get a nice little e-mail telling you when the pattern is available.

All in all, Vintage Pattern Wiki is an excellent site that allows you to find vintage patterns. But don't bother searching for modern sewing patterns. Nothing newer than the 1970s is listed. It's Vintage Pattern Wiki, after all.

Vintage Patterns: Grading Vintage Patterns

Changing a pattern to a different size is called grading. This is different from altering a pattern, as altering usually involves just a single area. Making the bust bigger or smaller to fit is altering. Changing a pattern from a size 6 to a size 10 is grading. Since vintage patterns are often smaller than today's patterns, they often require grading to fit. This process can be complex, so you should be prepared to practice a bit.

There are many different ways to grade a sewing pattern, and many vintage pattern sellers provide links to tutorials that explain grading in detail. Take a look at these different tutorials, searing for one that deals with a pattern similar to the one you will be grading. If you want a general overview of sewing pattern grading, check out Megan Nielsen Design Diary. This can help you get started, but be wary of just applying the directions given without considering your specific vintage pattern.

The first time you grade a pattern, you should use a simple sewing pattern free of complicated details. A gently sloping A-line dress is usually a good place to start, though there are other simple patterns you might want to try. Depending on the pattern itself the the exact measurements, you may be required to do either an even or an uneven grade. The difference? Quite signicant, actually. An even grade is where you add the same amount (or subtract the same amount, if you're making the pattern smaller) from the bust, waist, and hips of the pattern. For an uneven grade, each area is adjusted by a different amount to account for varying body proportions. Given that today's people are not the same as the people of 75 years ago, it's entirely possible that you'll have to do an uneven grade when working with vintage patterns. Commonly, you'll have to make the bust a great deal larger, which usually means an uneven grade.

Before you begin grading a pattern, practice with some spare fabric. You don't want to ruin a more expensive fabric until you're certain you've done everything correctly. Don't be afraid to experiment, but always practice before tackling the final project.

Vintage Patterns: Should I Use Vintage Notions?

Strictly speaking, you don't have to use vintage notions when making a vintage garment. Modern notions work just as well. However, antique trim, piping, and even buttons are a nice touch, adding authenticity and beauty to your garment. If you do wish to use vintage notions, be prepared to spend some time looking for them. You may have to check online or visit flea markets to get what you need, and you'll probably have to pay more than you would for modern sewing notions.

If you do decide to use vintage sewing notions, visit yard sales and flea markets. They'll often have things you wouldn't have thought of. But make sure to check the condition of each item, especially at yard sales. Sometimes the item you see looks good but is really unusable. Ask questions, and don't be afraid to walk away and look elsewhere. You can also check online. Ebay sellers usually have something worth buying, so check weekly to find what you need.

Many vintage patterns call for fabric-covered buttons or belts in their construction. In this case, you can probably use modern notions. Most fabric stores offer these items. If they don't, they can usually order them or at least help you find a retailer who does carry them. Once applied, a modern fabric-covered button looks much like a vintage one, so don't worry about these items too much.

One of the questions I'm asked about frequently is the use of hook-and-eye or snap closures in vintage patterns. Back in the day, these were the closures available to anyone wishing to make their own clothes. They didn't have zippers. If they did, they weren't readily available and came in limited sizes. We have more variety when making clothing today. It's not difficult to use an invisible zipper in a vintage pattern. They can usually be stitched in place of the closure the pattern indicates. Of course, if you're hoping to create an authentic vintage garment, you'll have to use vintage closures.

The choice to use vintage sewing notions is yours. They may be a little more difficult to work with, but the result is well worth the effort.