Vintage Patterns: Should I Use Vintage Notions?

Strictly speaking, you don't have to use vintage notions when making a vintage garment. Modern notions work just as well. However, antique trim, piping, and even buttons are a nice touch, adding authenticity and beauty to your garment. If you do wish to use vintage notions, be prepared to spend some time looking for them. You may have to check online or visit flea markets to get what you need, and you'll probably have to pay more than you would for modern sewing notions.

If you do decide to use vintage sewing notions, visit yard sales and flea markets. They'll often have things you wouldn't have thought of. But make sure to check the condition of each item, especially at yard sales. Sometimes the item you see looks good but is really unusable. Ask questions, and don't be afraid to walk away and look elsewhere. You can also check online. Ebay sellers usually have something worth buying, so check weekly to find what you need.

Many vintage patterns call for fabric-covered buttons or belts in their construction. In this case, you can probably use modern notions. Most fabric stores offer these items. If they don't, they can usually order them or at least help you find a retailer who does carry them. Once applied, a modern fabric-covered button looks much like a vintage one, so don't worry about these items too much.

One of the questions I'm asked about frequently is the use of hook-and-eye or snap closures in vintage patterns. Back in the day, these were the closures available to anyone wishing to make their own clothes. They didn't have zippers. If they did, they weren't readily available and came in limited sizes. We have more variety when making clothing today. It's not difficult to use an invisible zipper in a vintage pattern. They can usually be stitched in place of the closure the pattern indicates. Of course, if you're hoping to create an authentic vintage garment, you'll have to use vintage closures.

The choice to use vintage sewing notions is yours. They may be a little more difficult to work with, but the result is well worth the effort.

Vintage Patterns: Choosing Fabric For Your Vintage Sewing Patterns

Choosing a fabric to sew a vintage garment is much the same as choosing a fabric for a more modern garment. You should first take a look at both the pattern envelope. Pay particular attention to the design illustration. You'll want the drape of the fabric to match the drape of the illustration. A soft gown shouldn't be made of an upholstery fabric, after all.

You might be tempted to search out vintage fabrics, but modern fabrics are more versatile. One of the best things about these newer fabrics is that many of them have a certain stretch factor. Any fabric with a hint of spandex will add extra comfort to a vintage pattern. Since most vintage patterns have little wearing ease, this can be welcome and sometimes even necessary. Look for cottons (for lighter garments) and wools (for heavier garments) with just a touch of spandex for ultimate comfort. You might also try polyester if you like the feel of that particular fabric. Polyester is especially suited to patterns from the 1950s and 1960s, but cotton is a perfect alternative. You might even try silk for more delicate patterns such as gown and blouses.

If you absolutely have to have vintage fabrics, you really should stick to the types of fabrics indicated on the pattern envelope. To find these vintage fabrics, check out eBay and Etsy. Sellers on both sites often have fabrics for sale. Bear in mind, however, that most vintage fabrics will be only 35" to 39" wide. This means you'll have to purchase a little more fabric than you're used to so you don't run short. A little extra is probably a good idea, especially since you might not be able to get that fabric again.

In most cases you can use modern fabrics. If you like a particular fabric and it's about the right weight, you can probably use it for your vintage project.

Vintage Patterns: Following Dated Directions

Vintage patterns are very like modern patterns in one way -- some are easier than others, and some are downright difficult even for an accomplished sewer. But there is one important difference that should be addressed before attempting a vintage sewing pattern. Vintage patterns as a whole assume that you have a greater degree of sewing knowledge that most modern patters do. Most vintage patterns will have less detailed instructions and will merely say things like "insert zipper" without telling you how to do it. This can create confusion when it comes to completing a vintage sewing project.

There's yet another problem with vintage patterns. Many of the earliest patterns are perforated rather than printed on the paper, meaning that it becomes necessary to basically guess how the pattern pieces go together based on the perforated holes. This problem can be averted in the future by first tracing the pattern onto tracing paper and writing notes on the pattern pieces for future reference.

If you're new to sewing, get yourself a basic sewing manual before attempting a vintage pattern. I like The Sewing Bible: A Modern Manual of Practical and Decorative Sewing Techniques or even Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, but you may have your own preference. If you can find an older sewing book, you will have a greater chance of deciphering vintage techniques. Even an experienced seamstress may benefit from having a book around to help explain unusual construction techniques, such as gussets, that can be found in vintage patterns.

When you're looking for vintage patterns, try to avoid those created by well-known designers. They're incredibly complicated and difficult to complete even for an experienced sewer. Instead, look for patterns by Butterick or Simplicity which are marked "Quick" or "Easy." These will typically be easier to complete than more complex patterns.

If you purchase a pattern and find it has missing or damaged pieces of instructions, try Pattern Rescue. This site is dedicated to preserving and restoring vintage sewing patterns and can be a great resource for anyone having difficulties with vintage sewing patterns.

Vintage Patterns: Preserving Your Vintage Patterns

Vintage patterns can be great fun, but they're also incredibly fragile and usually difficult to replace if damaged. You may not want to use the original pattern for fear of destroying it. Instead, trace a copy of the pattern before using it. You can do this on tracing paper, but if you're hoping for a durable copy of the pattern, use interfacing or speciality gridded tracing paper. These are a little more expensive, however, so you might want to stick with tracing paper, butcher's paper, clean paper bags, or even easel paper. All of these will work.

When tracing your vintage pattern, copy all marks and symbols exactly as you see them. You can make adjustments after you've copied the original pattern as it appears. You can also write specific notes about adjustments or ease on the copied pattern itself without risking damage to your original vintage pattern.

Once you've copied your vintage pattern, store the original in a cool, dry place that is far away from any direct light. While it's tempting to put your patterns in plastic bins, don't. Plastic bins trap moisture and can degrade the paper the pattern is printed on. If you're looking for storage options, look at bags and boxes designed to store books and other paper items for long periods of time. These are created to allow airflow and will help keep your vintage patterns in top condition.