How to Read a Sewing Pattern (Without Losing Your Mind)

If you’ve ever excitedly picked up a sewing pattern only to stare at it like it’s written in a forgotten language, you’re not alone. Learning to read a sewing pattern can feel intimidating at first—but once you understand the basic structure, symbols, and terminology, it becomes a gateway to creative freedom with your sewing machine.

In this post, we’ll walk through everything you need to know to confidently read and follow a sewing pattern—even if you’ve never used one before.

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What Is a Sewing Pattern, Anyway?

A sewing pattern is essentially a blueprint for creating a garment, accessory, or home item. Patterns come in paper or digital formats and include:

• Pattern pieces (the actual shapes you cut from fabric)
• Instructions (sometimes called a "guide sheet")
• Symbols and markings
• Sizing information
• Yardage and notions list

Whether you’re buying a commercial pattern from brands like Simplicity, McCall’s, or Butterick, or downloading an indie PDF pattern online, most follow a similar structure.

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What’s on the Pattern Envelope?

Before you even open your pattern, the envelope itself is full of essential information.

📸 Front of the Envelope

• Illustrations or photos of the finished garment, often with multiple variations (called views)
• The pattern number
• The difficulty level (e.g., beginner, intermediate)

📄 Back of the Envelope

• Fabric suggestions – Tells you what types of fabric will work best
• Yardage chart – How much fabric you need based on your size and the view you’re making
• Size chart – Measurements in inches or centimeters for bust, waist, hips, etc.
• Notions – Everything you’ll need besides fabric (zippers, buttons, thread, interfacing, etc.)

💡 Tip: Always check the sizing chart on the envelope—commercial pattern sizes rarely match retail clothing sizes. You might wear a size 10 in ready-to-wear clothes, but a 14 in patterns. Don’t panic—it’s normal!

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Unpacking the Pattern Pieces

Once you open your pattern, you’ll find thin tissue paper covered in a maze of lines, numbers, arrows, and symbols. It might look overwhelming, but let’s break it down.

✂️ What You’ll See:

• Pattern pieces are labeled with numbers and names (e.g., Piece 1 – Front Bodice)
• Each piece includes cutting lines, usually nested together for multiple sizes
• Grainline arrows tell you how to align the piece with your fabric’s grain
• Notches, dots, and symbols help with construction and alignment
• Some pieces say “cut on fold” or “cut 2”—this tells you how many to cut and how to position them

💡 Tip: Trace your size onto pattern paper or interfacing instead of cutting the original pattern. That way, you preserve all the sizes for future use.

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How to Choose the Right Size

Sizing is everything in sewing. The goal isn’t to match your store-bought size—it’s to match your actual body.

Take your measurements:

• Bust – fullest part of your chest
• Waist – narrowest part of your torso
• Hips – fullest part of your hips/buttocks

Then compare your measurements to the pattern’s size chart. Most patterns include finished garment measurements too, which show how much ease (extra room) is built in.

👉 If you fall between sizes, consider blending them—for example, cutting a 14 at the bust and grading to a 16 at the hips.

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Understanding the Instruction Sheet (Guide Sheet)

The instruction sheet is your road map. It usually includes:

🧵 Cutting Layouts

Diagrams showing how to fold your fabric and place your pattern pieces for optimal use. It changes depending on:

• Fabric width (45" vs. 60")
• Size
• View you're sewing

🧵 Step-by-Step Instructions

Usually accompanied by line drawings, each step walks you through assembling the garment. These include:

• Seam instructions (e.g., “stitch right sides together”)
• Finishing techniques (e.g., understitching, topstitching)
• Special steps (e.g., installing a zipper or sewing a dart)

🧵 Common Sewing Terms You’ll See:

• Right sides together (RST) – This means the “pretty” sides of the fabric face each other.
• Seam allowance – The distance between the seam line and the fabric edge. Usually ⅝" (1.5 cm) unless otherwise noted.
• Ease – Built-in room for movement. Some ease is functional (you can breathe), some is stylistic (loose fit).

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Symbols and Markings: Your Secret Codebook

🔺 Notches

Little triangles that help match pattern pieces during construction. Some are single, others are double or triple to distinguish sides.

📍 Dots and Circles

Mark things like darts, pocket placement, or pivot points.

↕️ Grainline Arrows

Must be parallel to the fabric’s selvage edge to ensure the garment hangs properly.

⛓ Fold Lines

Indicate that the pattern edge should be placed on the fabric fold—don’t cut along this side!

🔲 Buttonholes, Zippers, and More

Special markings will show where to place these and in what orientation.

💡 Pro Tip: Use tailor’s chalk, washable marker, or tracing paper to transfer these markings from the pattern to your fabric. Don’t skip this step—it makes assembly much easier.

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The Cutting Process

Here’s how to go from paper to fabric:

1. Pre-wash your fabric (unless it’s something that doesn’t shrink like felt or tulle)
2. Iron the pattern pieces (use a dry, low setting)
3. Lay out your fabric according to the cutting layout
4. Pin or weigh down your pattern pieces
5. Cut slowly and carefully
6. Transfer all markings before you unpin

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Common Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)

1. Choosing the wrong size – Always go by your measurements, not your store size.
2. Ignoring grainlines – Misalignment leads to wonky seams and twisted garments.
3. Skipping notches – These tiny triangles make a big difference in matching pieces.
4. Not reading all instructions first – Don’t dive in blind. Read through the guide sheet before sewing.
5. Not marking pattern pieces – It’s easy to confuse front and back bodices or sleeve sides if you don’t label them.

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Practice Makes Progress

Reading a sewing pattern is a skill—and like any skill, it gets easier with practice. Don’t be discouraged if your first few projects feel slow or confusing. Over time, you’ll develop an eye for:

• Spotting construction techniques in clothing
• Modifying patterns to fit your style
• Even drafting your own patterns from scratch

The more you sew, the more intuitive it becomes.

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Final Thoughts

Reading a sewing pattern doesn’t have to feel like decoding a cryptic language. Once you learn what the markings mean, how to follow the instructions, and how to match the pieces to your fabric, the mystery disappears—and you’re left with the freedom to create.

So grab that pattern you’ve been eyeing and give it a shot. You might just surprise yourself with what you’re capable of.

Vintage Patterns: Choosing Fabric For Your Vintage Sewing Patterns

Choosing a fabric to sew a vintage garment is much the same as choosing a fabric for a more modern garment. You should first take a look at both the pattern envelope. Pay particular attention to the design illustration. You'll want the drape of the fabric to match the drape of the illustration. A soft gown shouldn't be made of an upholstery fabric, after all.

You might be tempted to search out vintage fabrics, but modern fabrics are more versatile. One of the best things about these newer fabrics is that many of them have a certain stretch factor. Any fabric with a hint of spandex will add extra comfort to a vintage pattern. Since most vintage patterns have little wearing ease, this can be welcome and sometimes even necessary. Look for cottons (for lighter garments) and wools (for heavier garments) with just a touch of spandex for ultimate comfort. You might also try polyester if you like the feel of that particular fabric. Polyester is especially suited to patterns from the 1950s and 1960s, but cotton is a perfect alternative. You might even try silk for more delicate patterns such as gown and blouses.

If you absolutely have to have vintage fabrics, you really should stick to the types of fabrics indicated on the pattern envelope. To find these vintage fabrics, check out eBay and Etsy. Sellers on both sites often have fabrics for sale. Bear in mind, however, that most vintage fabrics will be only 35" to 39" wide. This means you'll have to purchase a little more fabric than you're used to so you don't run short. A little extra is probably a good idea, especially since you might not be able to get that fabric again.

In most cases you can use modern fabrics. If you like a particular fabric and it's about the right weight, you can probably use it for your vintage project.

Vintage Patterns: Following Dated Directions

Vintage patterns are very like modern patterns in one way -- some are easier than others, and some are downright difficult even for an accomplished sewer. But there is one important difference that should be addressed before attempting a vintage sewing pattern. Vintage patterns as a whole assume that you have a greater degree of sewing knowledge that most modern patters do. Most vintage patterns will have less detailed instructions and will merely say things like "insert zipper" without telling you how to do it. This can create confusion when it comes to completing a vintage sewing project.

There's yet another problem with vintage patterns. Many of the earliest patterns are perforated rather than printed on the paper, meaning that it becomes necessary to basically guess how the pattern pieces go together based on the perforated holes. This problem can be averted in the future by first tracing the pattern onto tracing paper and writing notes on the pattern pieces for future reference.

If you're new to sewing, get yourself a basic sewing manual before attempting a vintage pattern. I like The Sewing Bible: A Modern Manual of Practical and Decorative Sewing Techniques or even Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, but you may have your own preference. If you can find an older sewing book, you will have a greater chance of deciphering vintage techniques. Even an experienced seamstress may benefit from having a book around to help explain unusual construction techniques, such as gussets, that can be found in vintage patterns.

When you're looking for vintage patterns, try to avoid those created by well-known designers. They're incredibly complicated and difficult to complete even for an experienced sewer. Instead, look for patterns by Butterick or Simplicity which are marked "Quick" or "Easy." These will typically be easier to complete than more complex patterns.

If you purchase a pattern and find it has missing or damaged pieces of instructions, try Pattern Rescue. This site is dedicated to preserving and restoring vintage sewing patterns and can be a great resource for anyone having difficulties with vintage sewing patterns.

Vintage Patterns: Preserving Your Vintage Patterns

Vintage patterns can be great fun, but they're also incredibly fragile and usually difficult to replace if damaged. You may not want to use the original pattern for fear of destroying it. Instead, trace a copy of the pattern before using it. You can do this on tracing paper, but if you're hoping for a durable copy of the pattern, use interfacing or speciality gridded tracing paper. These are a little more expensive, however, so you might want to stick with tracing paper, butcher's paper, clean paper bags, or even easel paper. All of these will work.

When tracing your vintage pattern, copy all marks and symbols exactly as you see them. You can make adjustments after you've copied the original pattern as it appears. You can also write specific notes about adjustments or ease on the copied pattern itself without risking damage to your original vintage pattern.

Once you've copied your vintage pattern, store the original in a cool, dry place that is far away from any direct light. While it's tempting to put your patterns in plastic bins, don't. Plastic bins trap moisture and can degrade the paper the pattern is printed on. If you're looking for storage options, look at bags and boxes designed to store books and other paper items for long periods of time. These are created to allow airflow and will help keep your vintage patterns in top condition.

Vintage Patterns: Sizing a Vintage Pattern

Vintage patterns are much in demand. Something about them attracts the novice and the expert alike. But when you look at vintage patterns, you'll notice that the sizes are not anything close to what we wear today. This makes it difficult to buy a pattern in your size. There's more to sizing a vintage pattern than simply looking at a number, so do your homework first.

Sizes are not the same today as they were 80 or even 40 years ago. So the safest way to pick the right sie is to ignore the size number completely. It's just a number and means nothing. When looking at a vintage pattern, first measure your chest or bust. Measure the largest point on your chest or bust and compare it to the measurements for the pattern you'd like to get. Then purchase the pattern that is right for your measurements. That's what's important.

But you also have to understand wearing ease. This is the difference between the garment measurements and the body measurements. To give an example of this, a pair of pants with a 32" waist might actually be designed for someone with a 30" waist to allow for comfort and movement. Vintage patterns have less wearing ease than their modern counterparts. You may have to add ease to make the garment comfortable. Consider sewing a test garment out of a cheap fabric to see if you'll have to make some adjustements (or even use a larger size).

Vintage Patterns: Purchasing Vintage Patterns

There's been a lot of interest in vintage clothing over the last few years. This interest has extended into the world of sewing. People with a sewing machine stashed in their basement are gathering their supplies and hunting for vintage patterns. But before you grab any old pattern from any old seller, there are some things you should know about purchasing these vintage sewing patterns.

First of all, if you've never used vintage patterns before, or are unsure what exactly makes a pattern vintage, buy only from a vendor who sells only (or at least mostly) vintage patterns. This person should be able to answer any questions you might have and can give you important information about bust measurements and other specifics.

Ask if the pattern is uncut. An uncut pattern is easier to work with because you won't have to deal with the alternations made by another sewer. If the pattern has been cut, ensure that all the pieces are there and relatively undamaged. Using a pattern that has been cut is fine, but you don't want to get it home only to realize that you're missing several key pieces.

Finally, if you have no familiarity with vintage patterns, start with something cheap and easy. Aim for a pattern that costs you between $7 and $15 dollars. The fewer number of pieces the better. Once you have some experience with vintage sewing patterns, you can venture into more complicated styles.

Colette Patterns

As a seamstress, I use both my own sewing patterns and those patterns created by others. For this reason, I'm always on the lookout for excellent patterns. I thought I had all the best sewing pattern sites bookmarked until I came across Colette Patterns. These clothing patterns were absolutely perfect. I couldn't believe I hadn't found this site before now.

The patterns are breathtaking with easy to follow instructions. They're vintage-inspired, but designed to be comfortable for modern men and women. Beautiful and unique, these patterns have served as inspiration for some of my own newer creations.

It's not just the styles that caught my attention. It's the quality of the patterns themselves. The patterns I've ordered have come in printed booklets with linen covers and even stitched bindings. A very nice touch and reminiscent of days gone by. They even include a glossary of sewing terms so even beginners will be able to follow the included instructions.

I love the patterns and recommend them for anyone interested in patterns that appear vintage but are much more comfortable and designed for the modern wearer.

Repairing Rips in Pattern Pieces

There's nothing more annoying that cutting out a purchased sewing pattern with great care and ending up with a rip while you're pinning the pattern piece to your fabric. Or when you're removing the pattern piece from the fabric. However you end up with a tear, torn pattern pieces can be easily repaired in very little time.

The first instinct of many people would be to grab the nearest roll of tape and just tape up the tear. This works, but only as long as you don't apply any heat. Traditional tape melts when ironed, ruining the pattern, your iron, and and fabric the melted tape happens to touch. Instead of using any old tape to repair rips in sewing patterns, purchase paper bandage tape. This tape will hold your pieces together, but it can also handle heat. You can iron the taped areas just as you can the rest of the pattern. Keep a roll of paper bandage tape handy for repairing tears in pattern pieces.