In this post, we’ll walk through everything you need to know to confidently read and follow a sewing pattern—even if you’ve never used one before.
What Is a Sewing Pattern, Anyway?
A sewing pattern is essentially a blueprint for creating a garment, accessory, or home item. Patterns come in paper or digital formats and include:
- Pattern pieces (the actual shapes you cut from fabric)
- Instructions (sometimes called a "guide sheet")
- Symbols and markings
- Sizing information
- Yardage and notions list
Whether you’re buying a commercial pattern from brands like Simplicity, McCall’s, or Butterick, or downloading an indie PDF pattern online, most follow a similar structure.
What’s on the Pattern Envelope?
Before you even open your pattern, the envelope itself is full of essential information.
📸 Front of the Envelope
- Illustrations or photos of the finished garment, often with multiple variations (called views)
- The pattern number
- The difficulty level (e.g., beginner, intermediate)
📄 Back of the Envelope
- Fabric suggestions – Tells you what types of fabric will work best
- Yardage chart – How much fabric you need based on your size and the view you’re making
- Size chart – Measurements in inches or centimeters for bust, waist, hips, etc.
- Notions – Everything you’ll need besides fabric (zippers, buttons, thread, interfacing, etc.)
💡 Tip: Always check the sizing chart on the envelope—commercial pattern sizes rarely match retail clothing sizes. You might wear a size 10 in ready-to-wear clothes, but a 14 in patterns. Don’t panic—it’s normal!
Unpacking the Pattern Pieces
Once you open your pattern, you’ll find thin tissue paper covered in a maze of lines, numbers, arrows, and symbols. It might look overwhelming, but let’s break it down.
✂️ What You’ll See:
- Pattern pieces are labeled with numbers and names (e.g., Piece 1 – Front Bodice)
- Each piece includes cutting lines, usually nested together for multiple sizes
- Grainline arrows tell you how to align the piece with your fabric’s grain
- Notches, dots, and symbols help with construction and alignment
- Some pieces say “cut on fold” or “cut 2”—this tells you how many to cut and how to position them
💡 Tip: Trace your size onto pattern paper or interfacing instead of cutting the original pattern. That way, you preserve all the sizes for future use.
How to Choose the Right Size
Sizing is everything in sewing. The goal isn’t to match your store-bought size—it’s to match your actual body.
Take your measurements:
- Bust – fullest part of your chest
- Waist – narrowest part of your torso
- Hips – fullest part of your hips/buttocks
Then compare your measurements to the pattern’s size chart. Most patterns include finished garment measurements too, which show how much ease (extra room) is built in.
👉 If you fall between sizes, consider blending them—for example, cutting a 14 at the bust and grading to a 16 at the hips.
Understanding the Instruction Sheet (Guide Sheet)
The instruction sheet is your road map. It usually includes:
🧵 Cutting Layouts
Diagrams showing how to fold your fabric and place your pattern pieces for optimal use. It changes depending on:
- Fabric width (45" vs. 60")
- Size
- View you're sewing
🧵 Step-by-Step Instructions
Usually accompanied by line drawings, each step walks you through assembling the garment. These include:
- Seam instructions (e.g., “stitch right sides together”)
- Finishing techniques (e.g., understitching, topstitching)
- Special steps (e.g., installing a zipper or sewing a dart)
🧵 Common Sewing Terms You’ll See:
- Right sides together (RST) – This means the “pretty” sides of the fabric face each other.
- Seam allowance – The distance between the seam line and the fabric edge. Usually ⅝" (1.5 cm) unless otherwise noted.
- Ease – Built-in room for movement. Some ease is functional (you can breathe), some is stylistic (loose fit).
Symbols and Markings: Your Secret Codebook
🔺 Notches
Little triangles that help match pattern pieces during construction. Some are single, others are double or triple to distinguish sides.
📍 Dots and Circles
Mark things like darts, pocket placement, or pivot points.
↕️ Grainline Arrows
Must be parallel to the fabric’s selvage edge to ensure the garment hangs properly.
⛓ Fold Lines
Indicate that the pattern edge should be placed on the fabric fold—don’t cut along this side!
🔲 Buttonholes, Zippers, and More
Special markings will show where to place these and in what orientation.
💡 Pro Tip: Use tailor’s chalk, washable marker, or tracing paper to transfer these markings from the pattern to your fabric. Don’t skip this step—it makes assembly much easier.
The Cutting Process
Here’s how to go from paper to fabric:
- Pre-wash your fabric (unless it’s something that doesn’t shrink like felt or tulle)
- Iron the pattern pieces (use a dry, low setting)
- Lay out your fabric according to the cutting layout
- Pin or weigh down your pattern pieces
- Cut slowly and carefully
- Transfer all markings before you unpin
Common Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
- Choosing the wrong size – Always go by your measurements, not your store size.
- Ignoring grainlines – Misalignment leads to wonky seams and twisted garments.
- Skipping notches – These tiny triangles make a big difference in matching pieces.
- Not reading all instructions first – Don’t dive in blind. Read through the guide sheet before sewing.
- Not marking pattern pieces – It’s easy to confuse front and back bodices or sleeve sides if you don’t label them.
Practice Makes Progress
Reading a sewing pattern is a skill—and like any skill, it gets easier with practice. Don’t be discouraged if your first few projects feel slow or confusing. Over time, you’ll develop an eye for:
- Spotting construction techniques in clothing
- Modifying patterns to fit your style
- Even drafting your own patterns from scratch
The more you sew, the more intuitive it becomes.
Final Thoughts
Reading a sewing pattern doesn’t have to feel like decoding a cryptic language. Once you learn what the markings mean, how to follow the instructions, and how to match the pieces to your fabric, the mystery disappears—and you’re left with the freedom to create.
So grab that pattern you’ve been eyeing and give it a shot. You might just surprise yourself with what you’re capable of.
