Working With Knit Fabrics: Selecing a Fabric Based on Stretch Factor

Knit fabrics are tricky because different knits stretch differently and the ability to recover after stretching is not consistent between fabrics. Commercial patterns that recommend knit fabrics are designed for different degrees of stretch, so check the pattern envelope for the appropirate stretch gauge before selecting a fabric.

It's also important to know what kind of stretch the fabric you're selecting might have. There are basically two kinds of stretch. The fabric might only stretch horizontally (called two-way stretch) or it might stretch both horizontally and vertically (called four-way stretch). This can be determined simply by picking up the fabric and stretching it both ways. These are not usually interchangeable. For example, if I'm making a fitted gown out of a knit fabric (which I just did yesterday), then you probably want a fabric that has only horizontal stretch. After all, you may not want the gown to stretch downward. Horiztonal stretch will allow the gown to cling to the body without hanging ... oddly after a few washes. But a four-way stretch might be better for a slip cover or tight leggings. It all depends on the final product, so test before you buy.

Also pay attention to the fabric content. Knit fabrics made of synthetic fibres tend to have better recovery than natural fibres, so if you're hoping to make something that will keep its shape after many wears, look for a fabric with at least some synthetic content. A gown made entirely of wool, for example, will eventually lose its shape.

The bottom line is you absolutely must know what you're making with a knit fabric before you grab it off the shelf. Stretch factor and fabric content are very important when you decide to work with knit fabrics, so consider these things before you go out fabric shopping.

Working With Knitted Fabrics: Pinning a Pattern

So I'm still working on the projects on my plate that require knit fabrics. I was doing this while I had a friend over. She was just sitting there watching me lay out a pattern on the fabric, a pretty pink knit that's becoming a gown, talking about the nonsense women talk about when they find themselves alone.

At some point, she cocked her head to one side and really focused on me. "Why are using little weights? Why don't you just pin the pattern in place?"

And so there was born my next tip for working with knitted fabrics. Never, ever pass a pin through a knitted fabric, especially if you're working with drapey knits such as slinky or matte jersey. Why? because if your pin goes through the knit instead of between the loops, you can end up with tears and runs in the fabric. Besides, pinning through knit layers often causes the fabric to shift, resulting in fabric pieces that aren't quite perfect.

What can you do instead? Use little weights to hold the fabric and pattern pieces so that they don't move. Or cans from the kitchen. Or whatever you have lying around. I bought little weights from the local hardware store, but you probably have enough small items in your home to make due if you don't work with knits very often. If you do frequently work with knitted fabric, you might want to invest in a few heavy weights. But to avoid damage to your fabrics, you might want to stitch little pouches for the weights. It never hurts to be cautious.

Working with Knitted Fabrics: Cutting Knit Fabric

Okay, I lied. Except maybe I didn't. Last week I said that I'd be knitting for a few weeks and so all my posts would be about knitting. But somewhere during the course of the week I set my knitting aside and picked up some knit fabric. I have a few projects on my plate, from gowns to cloaks to wedding gear requiring knit fabrics, so I decided to get back on track.

As a result, my tip this week involves working with knit fabrics. So, maybe I didn't lie last week. Knitting and knit fabrics are closely related, after all. Slight shift, but not by too much.

Anyway, one of the first things you do (though not THE first) is cut out your pattern pieces. But this can present a problem when using knit fabrics. Accuracy is of the upmost importance when cutting knits. When you're paying out your pattern (assuming you're using a commercial pattern), you'll want to follow the "with nap" instructions. Don't get creative. This layout is specifically designed for those fabrics that won't look the same if you hold them upside down. For example, velour catches the light different depending on the direction of the fabric. You certainly don't want your garment looking ... odd. Yes, odd is a good word. Odd and silly.

Once you have your fabric pieces laid out, make sure you use very sharp, burr-free scissors. Better yet, pick up a new rotary cutter blade to prevent snags, stretching, and bunching. You can stick with scissors, but only if they're very sharp. Practically new would be my suggestion.

As your cutting, don't stretch the fabric. Yes, I know holding the fabric taunt helps with accurate cutting, but that's only for woven fabrics. Knit fabrics don't get taunt. They stretch. And if you cut the stretched fabric you'll only end up with misshapen pattern pieces. So don't touch the fabric while you're cutting if at all possible.

Well, that's my tip for this week. Who knows what my tip for next week will be? If I'm still working with knits, it will probably be about knit fabrics. If not ... you'll have to tune in to find out.

Knitting Tips: Choosing a Knit

I've been knitting a lot lately and it's caused me to think about all those little questions I've been asked over the years. Knitting is an art and takes some practice, and a tip here and there can't help. So over the next few weeks I'll be posting a few knitting tips. How many? I don't know. One a week until I decide knitting is boring me and I wander back toward my sewing machine. 8, maybe 10. Possibly as many as 12. But all the tips will be based on questions I've been asked or little helpful things I've discovered in the years since I was a little girl at my great-grandmother's knee.

This week's tip involves choosing between a single-knit and a double-knit. To know which knit to use, you'll have to know what you're making. Each fabric will behave differently. single-knit fabrics such as jersey are lightweight and have a great deal more stretch. Since the yarn forms a single layer of interlocking loops, there is a clear right and wrong side to the fabric. And because of the stretch, they're great for everyday items such as form-fitting shirts and dresses. But not so great for a bag, scarf, or anything that needs to keep its shape or keep your warm.

Double-knit fabrics have a double layer of interlocking loops. Fabrics made in this manner, such as interlock, do not have a visible right and wrong side. This type of knit is perfect for scarves and blankets that might be viewed from both sides. The fabric is heavier and more stable and so works well for hats and mitts as well. But it is a very warm knit and garments made of double-knit fabrics are usually too warm for summer wear.

So deciding on a double-knit versus a single-knit requires you to know exactly what you're making. Of course, if you're following a set pattern, this decision has probably been made for you. But when I'm knitting, I don't usually work from a pattern, leaving me to deciding on a knit based on the purpose of the finished product.